🔗 Share this article The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form. It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown. "I've seen people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines." The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations. Urban Vineyards Across the World So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan. "Vineyards assist cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president. Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson. Unknown Eastern European Variety Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc." Group Activities Throughout Bristol Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation." Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil." Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street." Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine." "During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast." Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew." "My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious" The temperamental local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a fence on